Fleece Fabric Guide: Hoodie GSM, Types & Manufacturing

Direct answer

What Is Fleece Fabric?

Fleece fabric in cut-and-sew apparel usually refers to a knitted sweatshirt fabric whose inner surface is brushed to raise fibres and create a soft, insulating back. It may be made from cotton, polyester or blends, and its exterior can look relatively smooth while the inside feels plush.

Fleece should not be confused with French terry. French terry keeps visible loops on the back; fleece normally uses brushing to turn the looped or pile surface into a soft nap. That extra finishing changes warmth, thickness, hand, pilling behaviour and how the garment responds to washing.

For hoodie manufacturing, brands should specify the fleece as composition + face yarn / construction + finished GSM + brushing level + finish + rib specification + wash process. “400 GSM fleece” alone does not tell the factory how dense, soft, structured or stable the finished hoodie should be.

Factory rule: Never approve a fabric by fibre name and GSM alone. Record construction, finished weight, colour, finish, performance requirements and an approved physical swatch.

Material options

Types & Constructions Brands Should Know

The same search term can describe several different commercial fabrics. Choose the version that matches the garment, decoration and wear conditions.

Cotton-rich brushed fleece

Common in premium hoodies because the cotton-rich face can feel natural and print well while polyester in the blend may improve dimensional stability.

100% cotton fleece

Chosen for all-cotton product stories and natural hand. It requires careful shrinkage and wash control, especially at heavyweight GSM.

Polyester fleece

Can provide warmth with lower moisture absorption and good dimensional stability. It is common in outdoor, workwear and value-oriented programs.

Three-end fleece

A common sweatshirt construction engineered with separate yarn roles for face, tie and backing, allowing a substantial face and brushable back.

Heavyweight fleece

Typically used when brands want structured streetwear silhouettes, deeper hoods and substantial drape. Weight alone does not guarantee density or quality.

Anti-pill fleece

A finish or engineered construction intended to improve surface appearance through wear. Anti-pill claims should be tested on the actual bulk fabric.

Weight planning

GSM Guide for Fleece Fabric

GSM is a useful control point, not a quality grade. Compare it with fibre, yarn, structure and finish. Learn more in our GSM fabric guide or use the GSM Calculator.

Finished GSM	Typical position	Common product direction
240–280 GSM	Light sweatshirt fleece	Layering sweatshirts, mild climates, promotional programs
280–330 GSM	Core midweight	Everyday hoodies, joggers, uniforms
330–400 GSM	Premium heavyweight	Streetwear hoodies, structured sweatshirts, cold-season sets
400–500 GSM	Very heavyweight	Oversized premium hoodies, luxury streetwear, cold-climate garments
500 GSM+	Specialty ultra-heavy	Use only when silhouette, sewing capacity, rib and shipping cost have been planned around the weight

Ranges are practical development guides, not universal standards. Mill construction, yarn, gauge, finishing and end use can move the appropriate weight.

Product development

What Can Be Manufactured in This Fabric?

Fabric selection should start from the finished product. The cards below connect material decisions with the garment programs buyers actually order.

Pullover hoodies

A core application. Double-layer hood, kangaroo pocket, cuff/hem rib and neckline reinforcement should be balanced with fleece thickness.

Zip-up hoodies

Zipper weight, tape, pocket alignment and centre-front stabilisation matter more as fleece becomes heavier.

Sweatshirts

Crewneck and drop-shoulder sweatshirts use fleece well, with rib neck/cuffs/hem selected for recovery and matching bulk.

Joggers

Knee recovery, seat stretch, waistband rib/elastic and brushing durability are key development points.

Tracksuits

Matching top and bottom require controlled shade and GSM from the same fabric lot or approved coordinated lots.

Streetwear sets

Heavy fleece supports oversized and boxy silhouettes, garment washes, puff print, embroidery and appliqué when sampled correctly.

Brushed fleece fabric inner texture with heavyweight knit and rib trim samples — Macro material view for structure, surface and trim planning.

Factory specification

How to Brief a Manufacturer

A useful fabric brief makes the material repeatable. Reference swatches help, but the factory also needs measurable information that can survive a reorder months later.

Start with fibre content and construction. Then lock finished GSM, colour standard, width, surface/finish, stretch if relevant, dimensional-stability expectations and the intended decoration method. If the garment will be washed after sewing, approve measurements after the actual wash process.

Also state which properties are critical to the product: opacity for white uniforms, pilling for fleece, recovery for rib, dye migration for polyester, collar stability for piqué or spirality for single jersey. This turns a visual idea into a production specification.

Build a Tech Pack →

Example tech-pack wording

Write the Fabric Line Like This

80% cotton / 20% polyester brushed fleece · 380 GSM finished ± agreed tolerance · smooth face / brushed back · compacted / pre-shrunk · colour to approved lab dip · matching 2×2 rib specified separately · shrinkage, pilling and GSM approved after final finish · decoration strike-off on production-equivalent fabric.

Decoration compatibility

Printing, Embroidery & Finishing

Decoration must be sampled on production-equivalent fabric. Surface texture, fibre chemistry, stretch and heat history can change print and embroidery results.

Screen printing

Smooth cotton-rich fleece faces can print very well. Heavy brushing on the reverse does not matter as much as face fuzz, finish and cure behaviour.

Puff printing

Popular on streetwear fleece. The print should be sampled at final cure settings because puff height, cracking and hand depend on ink deposit and fabric movement.

DTG / DTF

DTG generally favours cotton-rich smooth faces; DTF is more flexible across blends. Both should be tested after any garment wash.

Embroidery & appliqué

Fleece supports embroidery and chenille well, but dense designs can stiffen the garment. Backing, needle selection and design density should be matched to the fabric.

Garment wash

Enzyme, pigment, mineral or silicone finishing can change shade, nap and measurements. Approve the washed sample as the real production standard.

See our clothing printing hub for screen printing, DTF, DTG, sublimation, puff, water-based and reflective methods.

Bulk control

Quality Checks Before Cutting

Approve fabric before it becomes hundreds of garments. These checks reduce shade, fit, wash and decoration surprises in bulk production.

Brushing consistencyCompare nap height and softness across rolls and colour lots.

Pilling resistanceTest the actual finished face/back because brushing and fibre blend influence pilling.

Shrinkage after washHeavy cotton-rich fleece can move noticeably if not compacted and wash-tested.

GSM after finishingMeasure after brushing and finishing because process changes weight and thickness.

Rib compatibilityCheck colour, stretch, recovery and thickness against body fleece.

Seam bulkHeavy fleece may require machine, needle, stitch and seam-allowance adjustments at hood, pocket and rib joins.

Material decisions

How It Compares With Other Fabrics

Comparison queries are useful because brands rarely choose a fabric in isolation. The correct answer depends on product, climate, fit, decoration and target price.

Comparison	Manufacturing takeaway
Fleece vs French terry	Fleece is brushed for a softer, warmer back; French terry keeps loopback texture and usually feels less insulating.
Cotton fleece vs polyester fleece	Cotton-rich fleece gives a more natural hand and print surface; polyester fleece can offer quicker drying and strong dimensional stability.
320 vs 450 GSM fleece	320 GSM can make a substantial everyday hoodie; 450 GSM gives much more body but also increases seam bulk, shipping weight and heat retention.
Fleece vs interlock	Fleece is designed for warmth and sweatshirt programs; interlock is a smooth double knit used more often for tees, polos and sportswear.

Commercial planning

Sourcing, MOQ & Cost Factors

Fabric cost is part of garment cost, but it is also one of the biggest quality levers. Approve the material system before chasing the lowest per-piece quote.

Fleece pricing is strongly affected by GSM, cotton percentage, yarn quality, brushing, finishing and colour. Very heavy fleece also increases cutting and sewing time, rib requirements, carton weight and DDP freight cost. A brand should therefore choose the weight for silhouette and climate—not because a larger GSM number sounds more premium.

Approve the hand after finishing. A greige or unbrushed swatch does not represent the final hoodie. For washed streetwear, approve the full garment sample after wash because fleece loft, shade, rib tension and measurements can change together.

For clothingmanufacturer.us/ orders: our standing production MOQ is 10 MOQ per color per style and up to 3 sizes. Fabric availability, custom dyeing, custom knitting and special trims can create separate material minimums, so we confirm them during quotation and sampling.

Claims & responsibility

Sustainability, Certification & Material Claims

Only claim what the order can document. Fibre composition, recycled content and certified sourcing are separate from the visual name of a fabric.

For recycled polyester blends or certified cotton claims, confirm documentation before ordering fabric. Fleece can shed fibres during wear and washing, especially synthetic-rich constructions, so durability and anti-pilling performance are useful quality considerations alongside fibre sourcing.

Product longevity matters: good rib recovery, stable seams, controlled pilling and correct washing instructions help a fleece garment stay wearable longer.

For industry testing concepts and textile methods, see AATCC. Certification availability should always be verified for the specific fabric/order before marketing a claim.

Buyer questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Short answers for product developers, sourcing teams and clothing brands comparing fabric options.

What is fleece fabric made from?

Apparel fleece can be cotton, polyester or a blend. The fibre content and brushed knit construction should both be specified.

What GSM fleece is best for hoodies?

Around 280–400 GSM covers many everyday to premium hoodies; 400–500 GSM is common for very heavyweight streetwear. Fit and climate should guide the choice.

Is fleece warmer than French terry?

Usually yes, because brushing creates a soft raised back that traps more air. French terry keeps loopback texture and is generally less insulating.

What is 3-end fleece?

It is a sweatshirt-knit construction using distinct yarn systems for the face, tie and backing, often used for substantial brushed hoodie fabrics.

Does heavyweight fleece shrink?

Cotton-rich fleece can shrink if not properly compacted and wash-tested. Approve finished shrinkage before bulk grading and cutting.

Can fleece be screen printed?

Yes. Cotton-rich smooth-face fleece is widely screen printed. Test ink cure and any post-print wash on the exact production fabric.

What rib should be used with fleece?

1×1 or 2×2 rib is common. Match colour, thickness, stretch and recovery to the body fleece rather than choosing rib by appearance only.

Can clothingmanufacturer.us/ manufacture fleece hoodies?

Yes. We develop custom fleece hoodies, sweatshirts, joggers and tracksuits with fabric, GSM, fit, decoration, private label and packaging specified for the brand.

Continue researching

Related Fabric Resources

Use the fabric hub to compare neighbouring materials before you lock a production specification.

Fleece Fabric for Hoodies: Types, GSM & Manufacturing Guide