French Terry Fabric: What It Is, GSM Guide & Uses
Updated September 28, 2026 · By the CLOTHINGMANUFACTURER.US production team, Sialkot
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What Is French Terry Fabric?
French terry is a knitted (not woven) cotton or cotton-blend fabric built on a looped-back structure. One side is knit flat and smooth — the side you see on a finished garment — while the reverse side is made of small, uncut yarn loops. Those loops trap air, which is what gives French terry its characteristic softness, light insulation and stretch recovery without needing added spandex.
It's woven on a knitting machine (technically a warp- or circular-knit process, not a true "weave"), which is why French terry drapes and stretches more than a woven cotton twill, but holds its shape better than a jersey knit. This combination — structure plus softness plus breathability — is why it became the default fabric for streetwear-grade sweatshirts and hoodies rather than heavier brushed fleece.
French Terry vs. Fleece vs. Fleece-Back Terry
These three fabrics get confused constantly because they're all used for hoodies and sweatshirts. The difference is in the backing:
| Fabric | Inside texture | Typical GSM | Warmth | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| French terry | Uncut loops, slightly nubby | 180–280 | Light–medium | Everyday hoodies, joggers, warm-weather layers |
| Fleece-back terry | Loops brushed into a soft nap | 260–340 | Medium–high | Premium hoodies, cold-weather sweats |
| Fleece (anti-pill) | Fully brushed on both faces, no loop structure | 240–450 | High | Heavyweight hoodies, outerwear linings, winter joggers |
If a supplier says "French terry" but the inside feels fully brushed and fuzzy rather than looped, you're actually looking at fleece-back terry or plain fleece — not wrong, just a different (usually heavier and warmer) fabric. Ask for a swatch and check the back with your fingers before approving bulk production.
French Terry GSM Guide
| Weight class | GSM | Feel | Typical products |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 180–220 | Soft, drapey, breathable | Summer sweatshirts, tees with terry panels, loungewear |
| Midweight | 220–280 | Structured but still soft | Everyday hoodies, joggers, crewnecks — the most common range we produce |
| Heavyweight | 280–340 | Substantial, warmer, premium hand-feel | Streetwear hoodies, premium joggers, cold-climate sweats |
We manufacture French terry garments across the full 240–320 GSM band as standard, and can source outside that range for a specific brief. If you're specifically chasing the heavier 340 GSM+ end of the spectrum, our heavyweight hoodie manufacturer page goes deeper on sourcing and pricing for that weight class.
Pros and Cons of French Terry
Breathable
The looped backing traps air without blocking airflow, so it doesn't overheat the way brushed fleece can in mild weather.
Soft hand-feel
No harsh brushing process means a naturally soft face and back straight off the knitting machine.
Good stretch recovery
The loop structure gives some natural give even in 100% cotton builds, and holds its shape wash after wash.
Runs lighter than fleece
At the same visual thickness, French terry is usually 20–40% lighter than a brushed fleece — a plus for warm-climate markets, a minus if you need maximum warmth.
Loops can snag
The exposed loop backing is more prone to pulling or pilling with rough wear than a brushed or tightly-woven fabric.
Cotton-heavy blends shrink
High-cotton French terry (90%+) will shrink 3–5% on first wash unless pre-shrunk — always ask your factory to confirm pre-shrinking before bulk production.
Common Uses for French Terry Fabric
French terry shows up anywhere a brand wants a hoodie or sweatshirt that reads as premium and soft rather than bulky. In our own production, the most common French terry requests are: pullover and zip hoodies, crewneck sweatshirts, jogger pants and sweatpants, loungewear sets, and terry panels used as trims/cuffs on other garments. It's also a popular base for garment-dyed and enzyme-washed streetwear lines, since the loop backing takes garment dye evenly.
How French Terry Is Made
French terry starts as yarn — usually ring-spun or combed cotton, or a cotton/polyester blend for better shrink and pill resistance — fed into a circular knitting machine. The machine knits two sets of yarn simultaneously: a tightly-knit face yarn and a looser feeder yarn that forms the uncut loops on the back. Unlike fleece, there's no separate brushing/napping step — the loops stay as-knit, which is the main reason French terry keeps a flatter, less fuzzy backing than fleece. After knitting, the fabric is scoured, dyed (piece-dyed or yarn-dyed depending on the design), and compacted to control shrinkage before it's cut and sewn into garments.
Caring for French Terry Garments
Machine wash cold or warm on a gentle cycle, turn garments inside-out to protect the loop backing and any prints, and tumble dry low or line dry. Avoid high heat — it accelerates shrinkage in cotton-heavy blends and can flatten the loop structure over time, which is what makes an old French terry hoodie feel thinner than when it was new. Skip fabric softener on garment-dyed pieces; it dulls the surface finish.
Red Flags When Sourcing French Terry
- No GSM on the spec sheet. "French terry" alone isn't a spec — always get GSM confirmed in writing before approving a bulk order.
- No pre-shrink confirmation. Ask specifically whether the fabric is pre-compacted; unconfirmed shrinkage is one of the most common French terry complaints.
- Vague blend ratio. "Cotton blend" could mean 60/40 or 95/5 poly/cotton — get the exact ratio, since it changes shrink, stretch and hand-feel significantly.
- Loop backing that looks brushed in the sample. If the "French terry" swatch you're sent already looks fuzzy, confirm you're not actually being quoted fleece-back terry at a French terry price.
French Terry Manufacturing, Done for You
We manufacture custom and private label French terry hoodies, sweatshirts, joggers and loungewear from our factory in Sialkot, Pakistan — MOQ 10 pieces per style, per colour, mixed across up to 3 sizes. Sampling takes 7–10 business days, bulk production up to 2 weeks after approval, and DDP shipping (5–8 days, duties included) covers the USA, UK, EU, Australia and the Gulf. Every order runs through AQL 2.5 inspection and 4-point fabric checks before it ships.
Get a French Terry Quote →French Terry Fabric FAQ
What is French terry fabric made of?
Most French terry is 100% cotton, ring-spun or combed, though cotton/polyester blends (typically 60/40 to 80/20 cotton-heavy) are common for better shrink control and durability. A small percentage of spandex (2–5%) is sometimes added for extra stretch.
Is French terry the same as fleece?
No. French terry has an uncut, looped backing and a lighter overall weight, while fleece is fully brushed on one or both faces and runs heavier and warmer. They're often used for the same garments (hoodies, sweatshirts) but feel and perform differently.
What GSM is French terry fabric?
French terry typically ranges from 180 GSM (lightweight) to 340 GSM (heavyweight, fleece-back terry). Most everyday hoodies and sweatshirts use 220–280 GSM.
Does French terry shrink?
Cotton-heavy French terry can shrink 3–5% on the first wash if it isn't pre-compacted at the mill. Always confirm pre-shrinking with your manufacturer before bulk production, and check the blend ratio — higher polyester content shrinks less.
Is French terry good for hoodies?
Yes — it's one of the most common fabrics for premium hoodies specifically because it's soft, breathable and holds shape well without the bulk of heavier fleece. Most streetwear and everyday hoodie brands use French terry in the 240–280 GSM range.
What's the difference between French terry and fleece-back terry?
French terry keeps its loops as-knit, uncut and unbrushed. Fleece-back terry starts as the same looped structure but has the loops brushed into a soft nap on the inside face, making it heavier and warmer while keeping the same smooth outer face.
Can French terry be garment-dyed?
Yes, and it's a popular technique for streetwear brands — the loop backing takes garment dye evenly, giving a soft, slightly heathered finish that's harder to achieve on tightly-woven fabrics.
What's the minimum order for custom French terry garments?
Our MOQ is 10 pieces per style, per colour, mixed across up to 3 sizes — low enough for a startup's first production run, with the same AQL 2.5 quality control used on larger orders.